Paradise- Neil Island

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Oh Neil! I think I'm in love!

The day starts really early in A&N Islands (Being up and about 5am is not something I am used to as a Delhiite). On Christmas morning, I left for Neil Island by a government ferry called M.V Jolly Buoy at 6.20am. I was still half asleep at 5.30am (which was the 'check in' time) and I tripped and fell on the concrete jetty, nicely grazing both my knees. The journey itself was fairly comfortable and took about 2 hours. (Personally, I would recommend the government ferry over a private ferry. More on that later.)

Sunset at Laxmanpur Beach

Neil Island is absolutely beautiful. There is no other word for it. It's a very small island, about 7km in length and is made up of 4 villages named after characters from the Ramayana (Ramnagar, Sitapur, Bharatpur and Laxmanpur). It's not a very popular destination, at least among Indian tourists. So there are very few people about and it pretty much feels like your own private island.  Except during sunset- that is when  ALL the tourists in this tiny island congregate at the Sunset Point to watch the sun go down. 

Tiny crustacean with a bright green shell

I stayed at the Tango Beach Resort which is a very quaint little beach side resort, although a bit expensive. It is about 10-15mins walk along the beach from the Sunset point. The walk along the beach was better than the sunset itself. Many tiny crustaceans crossed our path as we made our way to the westernmost part of the island. The timid little scuttling creatures in their bright and quirky shells would immediately recede into their safe homes and wait for the 'danger' to pass (or lurk silently with a camera) before making their way back to sea.

The Natural Bridge is also a wondrous sight... best appreciated during low tide. Again, for me, the walk to the bridge was more interesting than the bridge itself. The bridge was formed due to erosion of the rock by the sea over thousands of years. At low tide, the coral reef which is otherwise under water is visible at the surface.

Corals above the water surface at low tide

The walk to the natural bridge goes across a beach to a 'cemetery' of washed up dead corals to the live, colorful corals. Most people don't look down to appreciate the wealth of the ocean at their feet and are busy clicking photos of the massive rock forming the 'bridge'. On the other hand, I managed to discover the reef under my feet... Purple and brown colors finger corals, closed clam shells embedded in the rocks (I had only seen the open, bright blue clams before during snorkeling and diving sessions), slender and spiky star fish and sea cucumbers in the shallow pools. Not to mention the omnipresent crabs scuttling along the rocks, with their excellently camouflaged shells. 

Starfish in the shallow pools

Closed clams at low tide

Bharatpur beach is the best beach in Neil Island with its shallow, clear water and fine white sand. It's the kind of beach that attracts tourists. So naturally, I could be found at the far end of the beach away from splashing kids. Located just next to the jetty, Bharatpur beach is the perfect spot for a bit of lazing around. The water is shallow and warm and the waves are nice and gentle. Bharatpur beach is the most 'commercialized' beach in Neil Island. There are rows of tiny shops selling souvenirs and jewelry made of shells and coral. Bargain for a good price! There are also stalls offering tender coconut water, spiced cucumber slices and spiced raw mangoes...all freshly cut and delicious. There are a few activities like jet skiing and glass bottom boat rides over the reefs.


All the way across the island (7km) is the gorgeous Sitapur Beach.
As a beach, it does not seem much, but it is far less crowded than any of the other beaches and is mostly frequented by foreigners. Indian nationals rarely venture down to the beach and are satisfied by taking a few photographs from the lookout. There is a short trail to the right of the lookout that leads to a little clearing offering a nice view of water dashing against the rocks and, of course, tiny crabs scuttling along.

The Dusk at Laxmanpur Beach

There are plenty of places to stay near Sitapur Beach and some nice looking cafes which offer Andamanese Sea Food Dishes as well as Italian, Continental and Indian fare. The restaurant/cafe I liked best was called 'Moon Shine' which was about 5 minutes away from Tango Beach Resort. They make the most delicious home made pasta!

Crustaceans scuttling to sea

A MUST DO at Neil Island- Scuba Diving. I went with India Scuba Explorers- a tiny little shop near Tango Beach Resort run by PADI certified instructors, Johan and Gautam. I couldn't have asked for a better experience! They create a relaxing and casual environment and help you go about the dive completely at ease. I actually had a frightful experience with pressure changes during descent but Johan help me through it with utmost calm and patience. Once the pressure was equalized, the rest was a piece of cake and swimming among the fishes with only the (surprisingly loud) sound of exhaled bubbles is an almost spiritual experience. Also, I found Nemo! :)

Exoskeleton of a dead crab looking out to sea

Neil Island is very tiny and is also very flat (unlike other islands in A&N), this makes it an ideal place to rent a bicycle. You can hire a cycle for Rs. 100 a day. The only problem is the road. It is really bumpy and riddled with potholes... which makes the ride very jerky and teeth rattling (and bum numbing). But you soon master the art of avoiding potholes and picking out the least bumpy path. Bicycle is definitely the most economical way to go. You can also hire scooters for Rs. 400 a day. Taxis and tuk-tuks are available. It costs Rs. 80 to go to Tango Beach Resort from the jetty in a tuk-tuk (a distance of about 2km). Taxis charge Rs. 400-600 to show you all the 'points' (Sitapur, Bharatpur, Natural Bridge and Sunset point+ Pick up and drop from and to the jetty)