Ferries and ships are practically the only way to travel from one island to another in Andaman and Nicobar. You might be super fancy and hire a helicopter or a sea plane- in which case, this article is not for you. However, if you are one of the people trying to decide between a slow, bulky government ferry and a fast, sleek private catamaran, here is my take.
A government ferry is nice and slow (takes about 2 hours to cover the distance between Port Blair and Neil Island/Havelock). Its huge and heavy looking and there are far too many people on board (even though the seats are numbered and there's nobody left standing). There is no facility of 'checking in' your luggage and you have to carry your heavy bags with you and try to stow it in the limited space available. It feels really claustrophobic being seated in such a hole with people everywhere speaking in a language you don't understand. And if you're a foreigner, you'll be subject to quite a bit of staring.
However, once the boat has left the jetty, you are free to roam about as you please. For me, that meant rushing to the deck with my book and finding the best spot in the sun. It's an exhilarating experience, being on the open deck with the wind in your hair, waving the land goodbye and staring out into open sea. You can spot a school of flying fish here and there. The sunset is even better as you watch the sky change colors over the water. Once it's dark, you can stare up at the absolute brilliance of the night sky. Even just staring into the wake of the boat is hypnotic. Of course, there will be a lot of people around you, but once you're off, it doesn't seem to matter that much. A government ferry is the cheapest way to travel and you can interact with locals and be a part of some very interesting conversation.
As far as the cost goes, the ferry costs about Rs. 300 from Port Blair to Neil Island and about Rs. 350 from Port Blair to Havelock. They run at a reasonable frequency and timetable should be checked at the ticketing counter. As for the tickets, it's advisable to book your tickets 3-4 days in advance, especially during peak season.
Another good thing about government ferries is that their bulk and speed (or lack thereof) makes it exceedingly stable. Unless the sea is extremely choppy, you shouldn't feel sea sick.
Oh and these ferries have nicer names- after the various islands/bays of Andaman and Nicobar.
Now for the private catamarans like Makruzz (what a random name)... They're sleek, smart and gleaming white with tinted windows, on-board cafeteria and television screens playing song videos from popular Bollywood movies. It is frequented by lesser number of people and the people on board are much 'classier'. There is a facility to 'check in' your luggage. You might have to wait for some time after de-boarding before it is returned to you. That is provided they sent you luggage to the right island (It might have been a one off experience, but a lady travelling with me told me about how her luggage was sent to Havelock instead of Neil Island where she was de-boarding).
The boat is fast alright, covering the distance between Port Blair and Havelock in 45minutes. But the speed and sleekness comes at a cost- people puking everywhere. The bathrooms are nice and clean till they are covered with vomit (about 15 minutes into the journey). All but the most resilient travelers are advised to pop some sea sickness pills before the journey.
The worst thing, in my opinion, is that you can't go on deck. Well, there is no deck. You are just stuck sitting on your allotted seat watching Aishwarya Rai run into the waiting arms of Shah Rukh Khan. Thank God that the journey lasts only 45 minutes. The ticket of course, costs much more- about three times more expensive than the government ferries.
In my experience, for a person on a relaxed holiday, with no hurry in the world, wanting nothing more than the dull hum of the engine and wild flyaway hair (and saving precious money), government ferries are the way to go. If you feel the need for speed and the love for 90s Bollywood movies, cruise the Makruzz. Just remember to pop those pills!
A government ferry is nice and slow (takes about 2 hours to cover the distance between Port Blair and Neil Island/Havelock). Its huge and heavy looking and there are far too many people on board (even though the seats are numbered and there's nobody left standing). There is no facility of 'checking in' your luggage and you have to carry your heavy bags with you and try to stow it in the limited space available. It feels really claustrophobic being seated in such a hole with people everywhere speaking in a language you don't understand. And if you're a foreigner, you'll be subject to quite a bit of staring.
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| Government ferries named after islands |
However, once the boat has left the jetty, you are free to roam about as you please. For me, that meant rushing to the deck with my book and finding the best spot in the sun. It's an exhilarating experience, being on the open deck with the wind in your hair, waving the land goodbye and staring out into open sea. You can spot a school of flying fish here and there. The sunset is even better as you watch the sky change colors over the water. Once it's dark, you can stare up at the absolute brilliance of the night sky. Even just staring into the wake of the boat is hypnotic. Of course, there will be a lot of people around you, but once you're off, it doesn't seem to matter that much. A government ferry is the cheapest way to travel and you can interact with locals and be a part of some very interesting conversation.
 |
| Bidding the shore goodbye |
As far as the cost goes, the ferry costs about Rs. 300 from Port Blair to Neil Island and about Rs. 350 from Port Blair to Havelock. They run at a reasonable frequency and timetable should be checked at the ticketing counter. As for the tickets, it's advisable to book your tickets 3-4 days in advance, especially during peak season.
Another good thing about government ferries is that their bulk and speed (or lack thereof) makes it exceedingly stable. Unless the sea is extremely choppy, you shouldn't feel sea sick.
 |
| Soaking up the sun on deck |
Now for the private catamarans like Makruzz (what a random name)... They're sleek, smart and gleaming white with tinted windows, on-board cafeteria and television screens playing song videos from popular Bollywood movies. It is frequented by lesser number of people and the people on board are much 'classier'. There is a facility to 'check in' your luggage. You might have to wait for some time after de-boarding before it is returned to you. That is provided they sent you luggage to the right island (It might have been a one off experience, but a lady travelling with me told me about how her luggage was sent to Havelock instead of Neil Island where she was de-boarding).
The boat is fast alright, covering the distance between Port Blair and Havelock in 45minutes. But the speed and sleekness comes at a cost- people puking everywhere. The bathrooms are nice and clean till they are covered with vomit (about 15 minutes into the journey). All but the most resilient travelers are advised to pop some sea sickness pills before the journey.
The worst thing, in my opinion, is that you can't go on deck. Well, there is no deck. You are just stuck sitting on your allotted seat watching Aishwarya Rai run into the waiting arms of Shah Rukh Khan. Thank God that the journey lasts only 45 minutes. The ticket of course, costs much more- about three times more expensive than the government ferries.
In my experience, for a person on a relaxed holiday, with no hurry in the world, wanting nothing more than the dull hum of the engine and wild flyaway hair (and saving precious money), government ferries are the way to go. If you feel the need for speed and the love for 90s Bollywood movies, cruise the Makruzz. Just remember to pop those pills!
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